Chris Eyres's Trek Diary

Well we made it back in one piece, blisters and leech bites notwithstanding!! What an experience!

Everything went as planned until we arrived at Kathmandu via Heathrow and Muscat to the sound of beating rain. It was just at the end of the monsoon season but no-one had told the weather! After a night's rest we made off early in the morning for the airport to fly to Lukla to begin the trek to Everest Base camp. The rain had not subsided and the cloud cover was low! After waiting around for 3 hours we were told that flights to Lukla were cancelled for the day. Back to the hotel! Try again tomorrow!

It was at this stage that we put a contingency plan into operation, just in case! An even earlier start the following day and we had the same bad luck! More rain. More low cloud. Only this time we were despatched back to the hotel more quickly. If we didn't manage it the next day we would not have the time to get to Everest Base Camp and back.

A 4 o'clock wake up call and we were soon on our way to the airport for the third time. The sky was clear, the omens were good. Flights were leaving Kathmandu airport. We checked in and excitedly made our way to the Departure Lounge. At last we were on our way! Then we waited. And waited. And waited. Eventually we were informed that the weather in Lukla was very poor and planes were not able to land at this little airport surrounded by mountains, for safety reasons.

Adopt contingency plan immediately! We flew instead to Pokhara, which is due west of Kathmandu, from where we were taken to an hotel for the night. The following day we were driven along the winding mountain road to Nayapul from where we would begin the trek to Annapurna Base Camp! This is classed as one of the best treks in the world and graded as extreme! Our disappointment at not going to the big E slowly dissipated as we made our way along the trail towards Ghorepani and began to soak in the wonderful scenery and appreciate the efforts being expounded by the 29 porters, 6 kitchen staff, cook, 6 sherpas and Sirdar (expedition manager) who were supporting the 24 strong party!

The winding mountain track was shared by commercial porters and mule trains carrying goods to the mountain villages. Children and families greeted us with the warm Nepalese welcome 'Namaste' as they placed their hands together as if to pray. Waterfalls dropped from high mountain scars and birds of prey circled above in the clear blue skies. Any regrets were now completely gone from our minds as the trail unfolded and wound its way between the interlocking spurs of the Nepalese mountains.

Occasionally we would follow the track from the mountainside into cool rain forest where the sun faded from view and the leeches swung back and to from the leaves of plants skirting the path hoping to latch onto a passing body and stick itself into the warm flesh. Often you didn't notice until someone pointed out the blood trickling down your leg and you were forced to flick off the leech onto the moist leaves underfoot!

We camped in Ghorepani on the second night unaware of the magnitude of the surrounding mountains which were covered in cloud as we arrived in the village in the late afternoon. Annapurna South did peep down at us briefly from her lofty position as the cloud wafted about, and then she was gone. When I awoke the next morning and opened the tent I was able to see the sun rise above the mountains and realise that we were facing a 180 degree vista of snow capped mountains including Annapurna South, and Annapurna 2 jutting out majestically, silvery white against a topaz morning sky, the sun glistening on the powdery snow. I welled up!!

Below: Dr Stephen Bentley, Chris Eyres, Andy Gartside, Phil Gartside, Stephen Robinson at Annapurna Base Camp

The trail from Ghorepani to Tadapani was, in the words of the Sirdar, Ajay, 'typical Himalayan flat' i.e. a little bit up, a little bit down! As we skirted the mountains traversing in and out of the rhododendron forests, the trail was rocky and steep at times, and slippy underfoot especially in the shade. We followed a steep trail down and up past a slate quarry before descending into the depths of a shady gorge where we had to cross the river. It was here that I lost my footing on the moist stones and went crashing to the ground. Thanks to Steve Robinson's quick actions in grabbing my arm I descended not too far, but enough to leave my other arm with serrated cuts as I scraped the rocks. The Sherpas were quick to show concern but the cuts were clean and not too bad to warrant the urgent attention of the trek doctor who was way behind us.

The view from our camp site at Tadapani in the still morning air is breathtaking! Panorama Point Lodge is situated on a hill overlooking a valley extending towards folds of mountains in the distance. To the left, Annapurna 1 juts above the ridge leading to Machapuchhare (Fishtail Mountain), the unclimbable, stunning peak of this range. It knives the sky, snow covered, like the tail of a great whale! To the left is Annapurna itself, pointing skyward behind Annapurna South, the mystical wide mountain beloved of the local people. We sat in awe, silently drinking hot coffee, watching the sun rise above the distant hills to bathe the scene in sparkling rays. What a privilege to be here! Each day we think we have seen the most dramatic views only to be contradicted almost by the hour. But the clear morning sky, back dropping the snow capped Annapurna range will take some beating!

After breakfast we start the descent to the river in the valley, through rain forest and over slippery rocks, breaking out into the bright sunshine at times, passing wild orchids on the way. Further on the trail we stop at British Ghurkha Lodge for a refuelling stop. This Lodge, at the bottom of the valley about 100mtrs from a suspended bridge over the river, is typical of all the lodges on the trail. There are number of basic rooms containing a bed and a small table; a shop selling bottled water and drinks, sweets, rice, fruit and basic items for trekking survival. There are outdoor tables with more dining facilities indoors. Plants contained within plastic buckets, marigolds, geraniums, begonia line the pathways like colourful soldiers in uniform standing to attention. There will be a block containing solar powered showers and toilets, and there will be a covered area where the trek cook can set up a temporary kitchen to cook our meals. There will be rush or bamboo mats covered in freshly gathered vegetables, garlic, nuts, sweet corn kernels drying in the sun. At all these Lodges we are greeted warmly by the whole family who smile, waiting to be of service.

From here we climbed steadily up onto a path which levelled out and followed the contours around the mountain turning into the valley leading towards the base camps. We trek on past a buffalo pool along an undulating trail skirting the valley, not wanting or needing to stop for rest, taking the ascents in our stride. The squad are gaining in fitness as the days pass by and we are longing to reach our eventual destination.

Our arrival in Chomrong is greeted by a rain shower, just as the tents are going up. Even though the cloud is covering the white peaks, the view from Mountain View Lodge is stunning. Looking from the camp site the high wooded mountains to our left are sliced by a deep valley, the top of which appears to have been pinched by giant fingers! Moving to the right, the mountains are identical in height and structure; that to the far right a copy of the others. We stand, again in awe, at the beauty of nature, the solitude, the feel of the way of life for these mountain people. The wonder of this peaceful existence permeates the mind! Emotions run wild! And we think of home!

The half hour before dinner was spent reading and playing scrabble, the squad at rest. Suddenly, Annapurna South peeps out of the cloud and allows us a glimpse of its beauty, almost teasing us. As if not to be outdone, Machapuchhare glowers down at us, imposing the tip of its tail high in the sky for a few minutes, catching the sun as it goes down in the west. Then, as quickly as it appeared, it's gone, and we stare at the darkening clouds wanting more!

We descend quickly after breakfast from the scattered village of Chomrong on the hillside. The swift descent augurs badly, for it can only be followed by an equally sharp ascent! The steps up the other side of the river are hard work and we are reminded by Dojee Sherpa that 'slowly, slowly catches the monkey.' Having climbed up we are now following the contours of the mountain and I find myself at the front of the group of trekkers. I am able to count the party as we are strung out on the hillside, 30 including sherpas, which when added to the 29 porters and 6 kitchen staff make us a considerably large group. It is not surprising that we are well received by the Lodges and tea houses along the route. We are the first party of any consequence to pass through the valley for 3 months!

Continuing to climb we are given another glimpse of Machapuchhare flashing its tail seductively as the cloud thins momentarily before the great white tail submerges once again. We stop regularly to catch our breath and use the stunning views over the valleys as an excuse. The altitude is now beginning to have an effect and this, combined with the scorching sun and the steep ascents begins to slow us down. We pass a woman weaving wool on a home made loom, a man weaving mats from split cane, farmers cutting down bamboo and a child carrying a doko overloaded with grass and fern for cattle.

The journey from Sinawa, where we stopped for lunch, took us immediately into the forest uphill and we felt the temperature drop as the cloud descended and the rain came down. The undulating path took us down to cross streams on makeshift bridges and then back up through the forest where we could hear the chattering monkeys in alarm at the activity and colour the trekkers were bringing to their habitat. Coming out of the forest the rain increased and it was with welcome relief that we saw the camp being set up ahead. Even if the tents were still wet it meant we could put up our feet for the rest for the day.

I am awakened in the middle of the night by rumblings in my stomach which will only be satisfied by a visit to the loo. The rain is fine drizzle. I am amazed by the mighty continuous roar of the river in the gorge below as the overnight rain beats a path to the lower reaches of the valley. The electric light on the pole outside my tent is the result of the HEP plant we caught sight of as we entered the small settlement of Dovan. I am reminded of the resourcefulness of these mountain people and their need to secure a living from tourism as well as the land. However, in this part of the valley, only the cutting down of bamboo growing in the forest is available to them, the gorge sides being too steep for terracing. I return to the tent and sleep intermittently until I hear the voices of the kitchen staff as they prepare for the day ahead.

The cool morning air is tinged with dampness as the camp stirs for the exertions of our assault on Machapuchhare Base Camp. We climb steadily away from Dovan, most of the party clothed in extra jumpers for the trek, much of it along a wet stone path as we ascend through the dank morning air in the darkness of the deciduous and rhododendron trees. As we circle the cliff face in parts the drop down off the narrow trail is too far even to look, as we lean towards the mountain for our safety.

Much more of the same kind of trekking awaited us; mostly ascent on a steady winding path, stone steps and stunning views. Giant waterfalls cascade from the tops of mountains on both sides of the gorge, bleaching the stone as it lands and then bounces on its way down to the river below. The jagged ridge to our right across the valley and the searing drops to the right above us draw our attention and cause us to stop and soak up the wonder around us. Machapuchhare winks at us intermittently, drawing us on up the trail until we see our rest place, Deurali.

At this height the trees are beginning to thin out, the valley widens and the path becomes more natural. We see much evidence of avalanche activity strewn across the path and 'new areas' of rock exposed high above us. A rapid climb weaving between large rocks brings on the full signs of altitude sickness; my throat becomes dry and my breathing more frequent. I have a slight headache and stagger occasionally as if drunk. My pace decreases to what I imagine is slow motion, but I don't feel tired enough to have to stop.
I trudge on, head down, and determined to keep going.

Suddenly, I look up and see the collection of buildings that is Machapuchhare Base Camp and my spirits lift. There are tents erected and trekkers from other parties camping in front of the lodges. We haven't seen so many people together since we left Pokhara!
All the party arrive and there is a buzz of excitement as we sit on the veranda of the lodge and look down on the rest of MBC. A job well done! The first goal achieved! Everybody in one piece, just about! There is a collective uplifting of spirits amongst this fine group of people.

The doctor checks our blood pressure and people freshen up after the exertions of the day. We are looking forward now to the dramatic views that we know will await us in the morning, the cloud having descended on the whole scene, and the push on to Annapurna Base Camp tomorrow morning.

The final stages.......

The climb from MBC was steady and slow, the effects of altitude preying on our bodies. The porters were clearly visible along the open path ahead of us making their way along the river and it was reassuring to see, for the first time, the path unfolding ahead of us. We took in several short breaks to catch our breath and take on water. Further up the trail, still ascending, we could see more clearly the moss-covered valley sides divided into almost equal parts by the erosion made by the waterfalls as they gushed down the mountain in the monsoon.

The ascent levelled out here as the valley floor widened considerably and we were surprised to see the cluster of blue-topped buildings of our destination ahead. Annapurna Base Camp was in touching distance, yet a scribbled message on a large rock at the side of the trail, exclaimed 'ABC one hour!' It didn't look that far!

A pika scuttled between the rocks as we passed and at one point we spotted a dipper at the river's edge hopping amongst the rocks with its white head bobbing up and down. This was the other end of the bird spectrum from the golden eagle perched high on a lofty ledge that we'd watched through binoculars at MBC that morning.

As the oxygen diminished so did the distance we had to travel, and having stopped for the customary photo at the welcoming sign, we climbed the steps to ABC. We were not prepared for the rush which pumped through us at that moment! We hugged and patted each other, kissing and squeezing. I saw Andy and Phil together and left them for a few moments before going over and hugging together as never before. The tears flooded as we felt the enormity of the road we'd travelled together since Andrew's cancer diagnosis. The unsaid things we'd kept hidden away over the previous 21 months came flooding to the surface and we cried and cried, gripping each other tight in our three man huddle. That moment will live with me for the rest of my life!

It was as if this moment, reaching Annapurna Base Camp was the peak of everything that had gone before: Andy in particular, and both families had gone from the depths of despair to achieving this physical feat. ABC, in that moment, was the fight against cancer, the overcoming of the obstacle, the battle to move the immoveable! It was as if all trace of doubt about the reality of a future was expended. We can now put that episode of our lives behind us for sure. CANtreat will go on, for now. That will be the reminder, but Andrew can get on with his life, a new man, a strong man, and look forward to rebuilding his future without the cancer monkey on his back.

After sitting and talking for some time about the key moments during the early days of Andy's cancer, as if it was meant to happen, the sun burst through the clouds as the rain stopped and a new beginning was heralded! I sat on the top of a ridge near Boukreev's memorial overlooking Annapurna Sanctuary. It is deathly quiet! I look up the valley and imagine the glacier squeezing its way between the mountains, ripping away the sides as it moves along the valley floor depositing moraine in piles as it oozes into the bowl we have just climbed up, leaving behind the moon's surface. The sun is burning on my cheek and I look up to see Annapurna South, in all it's snowy glory, cloudless, oppressive, like a sentinel guarding over the base camp. Further peaks pierce the clouds and I am suddenly surrounded by a bowl of snow clad, craggy mountains, peaks jutting upwards, knifing the skyline, the finger-like sides of the rocky ridges reaching for the flat earth below. As Dojee Sherpa names the peaks for me, the clouds creep up the valley from ABC, silently, imperceptibly, and in a trice the whole beautiful panoramic view is gone.

But the memories remain!

Chris Eyres